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Kente cloth with a soul: discover how color, pattern, and origins combine to tell stories across generations and cultures.

Did you know that Ankara fabrics actually come from Indonesia?

Many people know the colorful Ankara fabrics (also known as African wax prints) as a quintessential African fashion item. But did you know that their origins actually lie in Indonesia ?


From Batik to Wax

The technique used to make Ankara is originally called Batik – a traditional Indonesian method in which patterns are drawn with wax onto fabric and then dyed. In the 19th century, Dutch colonists attempted to replicate this technique mechanically for the Indonesian market. But the locals found the factory-made prints too "perfect" and more authentic than the handmade versions. The fabrics didn't catch on there.



Indonesian Batik (also used for Sarong)

kente cloth batik patterns
Batik fabric. Source: Etsy

The journey to Africa

Through trade routes, especially along the West African coast , they attracted enormous attention. They became popular in countries like Ghana, Nigeria, and Ivory Coast . Each region gave the prints its own meaning, style, and name. What was Batik in Indonesia was called Ankara, Kitenge, Dutch Wax, or Hollandaise in Africa—depending on the country.


Many of these fabrics still bear the inscription "Holland Wax" or "Guaranteed Dutch Wax." This designation comes from well-known Dutch manufacturers like Vlisco , which has been producing these fabrics in the Netherlands for an African market since the 19th century.

batik-indonesia-sarong
Source: Ai WAKA (AI)

Every print tells a story. Some fabrics carry nicknames like "Jealousy," "Love Letter," or "Money Flies" and are chosen based on the message you want to convey. So it's not just a fashion choice, but also a form of communication and heritage.


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